Explorer Leonie went to the sting of the Earth and took within the huge, icy continent from each angle doable.
Visiting Antarctica is each a privilege and an journey.
Antarctica is the biggest wilderness space on Earth unaffected by giant scale human actions. It’s like an enormous, open air museum.
Alongside my Antarctica-obsessed husband, we cruised from the southernmost tip of Argentina, Ushuaia, to Antarctica and again once more. Two days at every finish have been spent crossing the notorious Drake Passage and 6 days in between have been spent exploring Antarctica and surrounds.
As soon as we arrived in Antarctica, cruising in fashion on the magnificent Scenic Eclipse, we have been fortunate sufficient to expertise the superb White Continent from 4 completely different views.
Wahey!
On Land
Until climate prevented it, we had Zodiac cruises and landings twice a day throughout our journey.
Zodiacs are inflatable boats used to move passengers on excursions away from the cruise ship. They permit passengers to go ashore in distant areas and to get nearer to the surroundings and wildlife.
I used to be nervous about alighting and disembarking the Zodiacs from the Scenic Eclipse, however I needn’t have frightened. The Zodiacs are inflexible and the Scenic Discovery Workforce are skilled at serving to individuals transfer between ship, Zodiac, and land.
Me concealing my concern on a Zodiac
It was surprisingly thrilling scooting alongside in a Zodiac. Typically we cruised by way of nonetheless water; different occasions by way of transferring, glacial ice. We inspected icebergs, we marvelled at glaciers, and we witnessed ‘calving’ – the breaking off of chunks from a glacier into the ocean (and the thunderous sound that comes with it). We witnessed two Humpback whales gliding and diving a mere ten metres from our Zodiac, a reminiscence that may ceaselessly imprint on my thoughts.
Usually, we had the chance to land on the ice itself. We explored former whaling stations, a dormant volcano, many penguin colonies, a shipwreck, a former passenger aircraft terminal and a former put up workplace.
We even hiked throughout the ice with essentially the most memorable hike being our trek to Orne Harbour. We have been fortunate to have the ability to do that hike because the climate closed in behind us and the ice shifted. The remaining passengers have been prevented from touchdown and have been solely capable of do a Zodiac cruise.
The ‘trail’ zig-zagged steeply to the highest of a peak the place there was a colony of Chinstrap penguins and 360° panoramic views of the expansive white under. I sweated beneath my full snow gear because the ascent was fairly arduous and I fell flat on my bottom a number of occasions coming down however the expertise greater than made up for my sore backside!
About as busy because it will get on the continent
On Water
Though not all the time related to such chilly climates, there have been common alternatives to kayak or arise paddleboard, and my husband and I spent a surprising morning kayaking round Cierva Cove.
Having kayaked solely as soon as earlier than, I used to be terrified that I‘d fall into the freezing Southern Ocean. Fortunately, my husband was extra skilled so he sat within the rear place and did a lot of the work! The Scenic staff have been skilled at exhibiting us placed on the dry fits and so they assured me that nobody had ever fallen in earlier than!
So kayaking in Antarctica exists
My absolute reduction at moving into the kayak safely was quickly overtaken by an intense feeling of vulnerability as we moved additional and farther from our residence on the Scenic Eclipse.
I noticed a whale blow not too distant. Having a direct psychological image of a whale upturning all of the kayaks, I requested the information whether or not the whales ever got here nearer. She advised me that they by no means had nevertheless it was her dream to kayak amongst whales! I used to be then actually terrified!
It solely took a couple of minutes for me to chill out as I realised that the water was extremely easy. Being so near the icebergs was completely breathtaking.
Their immense dimension was higher appreciated after we paddled round them. And the color – who knew that icebergs will be blue?
My concern turned to marvel to exhilaration and again to marvel. As our group of 12 paddled round serenely for over an hour, I couldn’t assist however replicate on how I acquired so fortunate. Right here I used to be kayaking amongst icebergs, surrounded by glaciers and snow-covered peaks with penguins porpoising round me and a whale or two exhibiting off not distant!
I didn’t take my cellphone with me on the kayak (for concern of shedding it) however that was a blessing in disguise. I had no alternative however to give up to the tranquility, the grandeur and the wonder.
Snow fell round me and chilly began to seep into my fingers and ft however the feeling of privilege and peace will stick with me ceaselessly.
From the Sky
As soon as we’d seen Antarctica from the land and sea, it was time to take all of it in from the sky, throughout a helicopter flightseeing trip over Charlotte Bay.
The morning of our flight dawned with clear, cobalt skies, excellent for flying. Our pilot, Cristina, was delighted that the circumstances have been so clear that we have been capable of see so far as the Weddell Sea.
The 30-minute flight was stuffed with oohs, ahhs, and digicam snaps. Witnessing the surroundings and ship from 9,500 ft within the air was an incredible and distinctive perspective and utterly completely different from surveying the surroundings from the attitude of the ship.
From the peak of the helicopter, I used to be mesmerized by the deep crevasses crisscrossing by way of the glaciers frozen and suspended in time. No photograph nor film I’d seen ready me for the gargantuan proportions of Antarctica. It actually was white so far as the attention may see.
From the air, the unimaginable vastness of the white snow and ice was simpler to see however no simpler to grasp.
A perspective of Antarctica I’ll all the time cherish
Beneath the Floor
As above, so under. We wished to soak up the White Continent from all angles and there was nonetheless another to go – under the floor. As somebody who doesn’t like enclosed areas, I handed on this one, however my nautical nerd husband eagerly jumped aboard the submersible.
Time to go under sea degree
Descending and gliding alongside within the submersible was a couple of 30 minute expertise. My thrill-seeking husband discovered it a bit comfortable inside with six different individuals however, descending 64m into close to darkness, he felt privileged to expertise a world few individuals get to behold. The submersible’s lights illuminated all several types of molluscs, corals, and seafloor growths.
One Continent 4 Angles
Visiting Antarctica is a bucket checklist journey in and of itself. Seeing it from 4 completely different views – land, water, sky, and under the floor – was a deal with of all treats; one mind-blowing spotlight after one other.
No photograph does the vastness of the surroundings justice.
An unforgettable journey
Our expertise of cruising Antarctica on the Scenic Eclipse was undeniably an opulent one, however nonetheless probably the most unforgettable adventures we’ve had. An journey which has solely whet our urge for food for extra.
Did somebody say East Antarctica? Signal me up!
The Author traveled to Antarctica on the magnificent Scenic Eclipse at her personal expense. The journey she did was known as ‘Antarctica In Depth’.
